I present to you on this occasion the route that Rafa and I covered last December (2023), which we have named the Transandaluza Norte. At the bottom of this blog entry, I will leave the route track for you to download directly, as well as the link to Wikiloc for those who are more accustomed to operating there.

The route runs through the northern mountains of Andalusia, southern Extremadura, and southern Castilla La Mancha. We have named it the Transandaluza Norte because it would be the route that completes the circle, or rather the triangle in this case, of the Transandaluza, which we could call the southern route. Rafa had already traveled the southern route in 2022, and I couldn´t join him due to work commitments.

"I encourage you to watch the videos on YouTube."

We departed on December 2, 2023, from the province of Huelva, from the town of Encinasola, located in the natural park of Sierra de Aracena and Picos de Aroche, very close to the border with Portugal, heading east to Alcaraz in the Sierra of the same name. Our intention was to reach Alcaraz by traveling through the northern mountains of Andalusia, southern Extremadura, and Castilla-La Mancha. In total, a route of 1,324 kms, mostly on paths away from asphalt, though it wasn´t always possible.

The route is not a straight line; it has a disordered, scattered shape. Its main direction is east, but it takes twists and turns to the north or south, or both, and sometimes retraces gained ground by turning west. With the main direction being east, we advanced and followed the tracks towards Alcaraz.

Our initial intention was to take the "Ruta del Caño," the GR 48. We set out in fog and heavy rain until, downhill in a small ravine, we reached a gate that was closed. I´m not sure if the rains had washed away the tire tracks, but it seemed like no car had passed in a long time. At the same time, we got the impression that the gate was securely closed; it didn´t seem like a regular gate that could be easily opened and closed.

So, from the very beginning, we were forced to change our plans. Encountering that closed gate, we had to turn around and pick up the track later. This change was more due to doubts about whether we could pass through there than certainty that we couldn´t. In fact, a few kilometers later, when we resumed the track from the road, we realized that the path was open, and we could have continued. The route began with unforeseen events, as is common in these overland journeys.

This first part of the track runs through "cañadas" and "cañadas reales" (In Spain, the term ´cañada real´ is used to designate ancient transhumance routes, that is, paths used for the seasonal movement of livestock between grazing areas. These pathways were essential for livestock activity and held historical and cultural significance). It´s a beautiful area, like the entire route, passing through this pastoral region. Many times, there is uncertainty about whether one can drive through a "cañada" or a "cañada real." In fact, many of you have assured me that driving through "cañadas reales" is not allowed; it is strictly prohibited.

In essence, driving through a "cañada" or "cañada real" is neither allowed nor prohibited. If we are strict, what is strictly prohibited is driving motor vehicles off roads or highways, outside paths expressly designed for vehicle use. What is prohibited, to be clear, is off-road driving, away from roads or highways.

It must be clarified that "cañadas reales" are not paths designed for vehicles; they are passages with various characteristics, mainly widths, intended for the transit of livestock. So, driving through a "cañada real" is not allowed, that is clear and not open to discussion.

A different matter, and here comes the caveat, is that if a public road or highway runs through the "cañada" or "cañada real," then driving on that road or highway is allowed. If there is a public road, for example, traveling on that road is permitted. It´s essential to note that when we do this, we are not precisely driving through the "cañada real" itself; instead, we are traveling on a public road or highway that is traced within the "cañada real." The public road, generally, is much narrower than the "cañada," so if we stick to the road without deviating, we are allowed to drive. To illustrate, the Calle de Alcalá in the heart of Madrid is a "cañada real." Therefore, on the route, we traverse various public roads whose paths coincide with different "cañadas reales."

A significant part of the track crosses different mountain ranges, hence the subtitle "de sierra en sierra" (from mountain to mountain). We indeed traverse the different mountain ranges in the area and several natural parks. We cross Sierra Morena and many of its constituent mountains, such as Sierra de Hornachuelos, Sierra de Aracena, Sierra de Andújar, Sierra del Norte de Sevilla, and Sierra de Cazorla Segura y las Villas.

Certainly, I would like to draw attention to Sierra Madrona, located in the province of Ciudad Real. It is part of the Sierra de Andújar and, therefore, is another mountain range within Sierra Morena. I was not familiar with it, hadn´t even heard of it, perhaps that´s why it surprised me so much. It´s a beautiful area with spectacular landscapes, although the entire route passes through incredible scenery, it is this small Sierra Madrona that has left the greatest impression on me. In fact, it is my intention to explore it more thoroughly. I think it would be a good idea to organize a trip of a few days, maybe four or five, set up camp at a specific point, for example, in Fuencaliente, and explore the Sierra at a leisurely pace. A good time might be at the beginning of spring or the beginning of autumn, but as always, the issue is time, the cursed time that is limited. Well, you can´t have it all; in any case, Sierra Madrona is well worth the effort.

As I mentioned, I´ve subtitled this route as "From Mountain to Mountain," although I could have subtitled it "From Natural Park to Natural Park." The route crosses almost as many natural parks as mountain ranges. We traverse the Natural Park of Sierra Norte de Sevilla, the Natural Park of Sierra de Aracena and Picos de Aroche, the Natural Park of Sierra de Andújar, and the Natural Park of Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas, my favorite. The latter is the most beautiful of all, although I am not objective on this point.

The Natural Park Sierra de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas was the first one I explored in that area and the one that has left the most lasting impression on me. I love traveling its paths and try to get there at least once a year. It left such a mark on me that during the pandemic when we could only travel with memories, old recorded videos, and imagination, I couldn´t stop thinking about Sierra de Cazorla, specifically the Campos de Hernan Perea or Hernan Pelea in the Sierra de Segura.

These fields are the area in Spain that has left the greatest impression on me with its landscape and cold. The first time I came down from the Basque Country, in the north of Spain, although I should say went up, as these fields are formed by a karst plateau (look it up on Wikipedia) at an altitude between 1,600 and 1,700 meters in the province of Jaén. Naively, I thought it was always warm in Andalusia; I arrived there on November 1st, All Saints´ Day, with snow and a cold that froze even the obscenest thoughts of a penguin... The point is, I fell in love with those fields. I believe it´s an area where every self-respecting overlander should spend a cold winter night in one of its shelters, I highly recommend it.

Finally, the route heads towards the Sierra de Alcaraz, also a beautiful, mountainous area with charming landscapes, to end up in the border town of Alcaraz. A city of remarkable historical and cultural interest, where we shared some beers with another great Land Rover enthusiast, who, between beers, provided us with very enjoyable lessons about olives and oil. In fact, he arrived well at the evening after an intense day of harvesting.

This is where this journey, which I invite you to explore with an open mind, education, and respect, comes to an end. I remember the lessons from my father when he used to say: "...if you go somewhere, leave everything as you found it, so that no one can say you´ve been there, and you can always come back whenever you want...". That´s what I would ask of you, if I could ask for anything. Let´s have respect and education, let´s not give excuses to so many freedom deniers that roam around these lands called Spain and Europe.

Friends, safe travels, we are muleteers, and we are on our way. See you there!"